专利摘要:
method of strengthening hair fibers and protecting the color of dyed hair from fading or loss of color by washing. the document discloses a method for strengthening hair fibers employing a hair composition comprising a starch and/or an alkyl ammonium carboxylate salt. the starch can be a monostarch and/or a bisstarch. a method for color protection of colored hair from fading or decolorization in washes using the hair composition is also presented.
公开号:BR112018000488B1
申请号:R112018000488-0
申请日:2016-07-06
公开日:2021-06-29
发明作者:Emmanuel Paul Jos Marie Everaert;Gijsbert Kroon;Xiaochun Zhang
申请人:Hercules Llc;
IPC主号:
专利说明:

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of Disclosed and Claimed Inventive Concepts
[001] The presently disclosed inventive process(es), procedure(s), method(s), product(s), result(s) and/or concept(s) collectively below referred to as "the presently disclosed and/or claimed inventive concept(s)" generally refers to a method of strengthening hair fibers using a hair composition comprising an amide and/or carboxylate salt of alkylammonium. Also included is a method of protecting the color of dyed hair from fading or washing using the hair composition. 2. Background and Applicable Aspects of the Inventive Concept(s) and Claimed Presently Revealed
[002] Hair can be damaged from various sources. Hair fiber can be damaged by environmental influences such as exposure to UV and chlorine; chemical influences such as dyeing, bleaching, perming, and overwashing with harsh surfactant-based cleaning shampoo compositions; and mechanical influences such as prolonged use of dryers, boards, etc. Consequently, hair dries and becomes brittle, split ends are formed or the hair may break and lose its strength, while the hair's constituent proteins are eluted by treatments with shampoos, permanent chemicals, hair dyes or the like and , thus, the proteins gradually disappear. Thus, with the elution of proteins, the hair becomes thinner and the likelihood of damage increases. Hair, once damaged, is unable to restore its original state. Therefore, it is necessary to protect the hair from damage, and in case of damage, repair the damaged hair in order to keep the hair beautiful and healthy.
[003] It is well known that hair protein contains many different chemical groups, such as anionic groups, cationic groups consisting of sulfate, amino groups, hydrogen bonding groups and so on. These groups offer many opportunities to repair, strengthen and improve/beautify (damaged) hair. Based on these principles, many hair care products have been developed.
[004] Hair coloring has become increasingly popular in recent years. However, fading of artificial hair color has become a common problem and a frequent consumer complaint. Fading can occur during shampoo treatment as a loss of color, or it can be initiated by environmental circumstances such as exposure to UV radiation. The washing process is the most significant factor in hair color removal, while UV exposure has a significant impact only after 90 hours of intense irradiation. In addition, the surface-active agents present in shampoo formulations provide a wetting function that brings moisture into the hair, thus facilitating the removal of dye molecules that come out during the rinsing process with water. Maintaining hair color and minimizing hair color fading is highly desirable in the hair care market.
[005] There continues to be a need for topical hair care compositions that can strengthen and repair damaged hair, in addition to protecting the color of dyed hair.
[006] Surprisingly, it has been found that a hair composition comprising an amide and/or an alkylammonium carboxylate salt can be used to strengthen and repair damaged hair. Hair makeup can also be used to protect hair color from fading or washing. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTIVE CONCEPT(S)
[007] Before explaining at least one embodiment of the inventive concept(s) presently disclosed in the present case, it should be understood that the inventive concept(s) presently disclosed is not limited in its application to the details of construction and arrangement of components or steps or methodologies set out in the description below or illustrated in the drawings. The presently disclosed and claimed inventive concept(s) is capable of other embodiments or of being practiced or realized in various ways. Furthermore, it is to be understood that the phraseology and terminology employed herein is for the purpose of description and should not be considered limiting.
[008] Unless otherwise defined herein, technical terms used in connection with the inventive concept(s) currently disclosed and/or claimed shall have the meaning that is commonly understood by those skilled in the art. Also, unless required by the context, singular terms must include pluralities and plural terms must include the singular.
[009] All patents, published Patent Applications and unpatented publications mentioned in the specification are indicative of the skill level of those skilled in the art to which the presently disclosed and/or claimed concept(s) belongs. All Patents, published Patent Applications and unpatented publications referred to anywhere in this application are expressly incorporated herein by reference in their entirety to the same extent as if each individual Patent or publication were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference.
[0010] All compositions and/or methods disclosed herein can be made and performed without undue experimentation in light of the present disclosure. While the compositions and methods of the presently disclosed inventive concept(s) have been described in terms of preferred embodiments, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that variations can be applied to the compositions and/or methods and the steps or following the steps of the method described in this document, without departing from the concept, spirit and scope of the presently disclosed inventive concept(s). All such substitutes and similar modifications apparent to those skilled in the art are considered to be within the spirit, scope and concept of the inventive concept(s) disclosed herein.
[0011] As used in accordance with the present description, the following terms, unless otherwise indicated, are to be understood to have the following meanings.
[0012] The use of the word "a" or "an" when used in conjunction with the term "comprising" may mean "one", but is also consistent with the meaning of "one or more", "at least one" and "one or more than one". Use of the term "or" means "and/or" unless explicitly stated to refer to alternatives only if the alternatives are mutually exclusive, although the disclosure supports a definition that refers only to the alternatives and "and/or" . Throughout this Order, the term "about" is used to indicate that a value includes the inherent variation of error for the quantifying device, the method being employed to determine the value or variation that exists among study subjects. For example, but not by way of limitation, when the term "about" is used, the designated amount may vary by plus or minus twelve percent, or eleven percent, or ten percent, or nine percent, or eight percent, or seven percent, or six percent, or five percent, or four percent, or three percent, or two percent, or one percent. The use of the term "at least one" shall be understood to include one, as well as any amount greater than one, including but not limited to, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50 , 100, etc. The term "at least one" can extend to 100 or 1,000 or more, depending on the term it is attached to. Furthermore, quantities of 100/1,000 should not be considered limiting as lower or higher limits can also produce satisfactory results. Furthermore, the use of the term "at least one of X, Y, and Z" shall be understood to include X alone, Y alone, and Z alone, as well as any combination of X, Y, and Z. The use of ordinal number terminology (ie, "first", "second", "third", "fourth", etc.) is solely for the purpose of differentiating between two or more items and, unless otherwise indicated, does not mean sequence or order or importance to a item in relation to the other or any order of addition.
[0013] As used herein, the words "comprising" (and any form of composition, such as "comprise" and "comprise"), "having" (and any form of having, such as "have" and "has") , "including" (and any form of including, such as "includes" and "include") or "contain" (and any form of containing, such as "contains" and "contains") are inclusive or open and do not exclude additional elements not appreciated or method steps. The term "or combinations thereof", as used herein, refers to all permutations and combinations of the items listed that precede the term. For example, "A, B, C or combinations thereof are intended to include at least one of: A, B, C, AB, AC, BC or ABC and, if order is important in a particular context, also BA , CA, CB, CBA, BCA, ACB, BAC or CAB Continuing with this example, expressly included are combinations that contain repetitions of one or more items or terms, such as BB, AAA, MB, BBC, AAABCCCC, CBBAAA, CABABB, and so on. The person skilled in the art will understand that there is usually no limit on the number of items or terms in any combination, unless different from the context.
[0014] As used herein, the term "hair" or "hair fiber(s)" to be treated may be "living", i.e. in a living body, or may be "non-living", i.e. wig, lock of hair or other aggregation of non-living keratin fibers. Human mammal hair is preferred. However, wool, fur and other fibers containing keratin are suitable substrates for the compositions according to the presently disclosed inventive concept(s). "Hair" and "hair fibre(s) are used interchangeably in the presently disclosed inventive concept(s).
[0015] "Virgin hair" means hair that has never been chemically and/or mechanically treated including, but not limited to, coloring, bleaching, relaxing, straightening, perming, cleaning and sun exposure, UV light, salt water, blow dryer or flat iron , etc.
As used herein, the expression "no rinse or leave-on compositions" means compositions that are not rinsed with water once applied to hair.
As used herein, the term "rinse-off or rinse-off compositions" means compositions which are rinsed with water once applied to the hair.
[0018] As used herein, the term "dyed hair" means hair colored with a permanent, semi-permanent or temporary artificial color, which may be different from the original hair color.
[0019] As used herein, the expression "fading color of dyed hair" means the erosion of color of dyed hair.
[0020] The presently disclosed and claimed inventive concept(s) relates, in general, to a method of strengthening hair fibers comprising applying a hair composition comprising a carboxylate amide and/or alkylammonium salt. The amide can be a monoamide and/or a bisamide. Hair fibers can include virgin hair and damaged or weakened hair fibers.
[0021] In a non-limiting embodiment, the hair composition may be represented by Formula (I), or Formula (II), or Formula (I) and Formula (II).
wherein R1-R4 are independently hydrogen, a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 10 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a sulfhydryl group, an aryl group, or a halogen; and R5 and R6 are independently hydrogen, an aliphatic hydrocarbon group, an alicyclic hydrocarbon group, an aryl group, an alkylaryl group or a heterocyclic group. The aliphatic hydrocarbon group, alicyclic hydrocarbon group, aryl group, alkylaryl group or heterocyclic group can be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
wherein R'1-R'2 are independently hydrogen, a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 10 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a sulfhydryl group, an aryl group, an alkylaryl group or a halogen; and R'5 and R'6 are independently hydrogen, an aliphatic hydrocarbon group, an alicyclic hydrocarbon group, an aryl group, an alkylaryl group or a heterocyclic group, excluding R'5 and R'6 being simultaneous hydrogens. The aliphatic hydrocarbon group, alicyclic hydrocarbon group, aryl group, alkylaryl group or heterocyclic group can be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
[0022] The amounts of Formula (I) and Formula (II) can be varied when the hair composition comprises formulas (I) and (II). Molar percentages of Formula (I) to Formula (II) can range from 0.1 molar to 99.9 mol%. In a non-limiting embodiment, the molar ratio of Formula (I) to Formula (II) may be from 1:99 to 99:1. In another non-limiting embodiment, the molar ratio of Formula (I) to Formula (II) can be from 20:80 to 80:20. In yet another non-limiting embodiment, the molar ratio of Formula (I) to Formula (II) may be from 40:60 to 60:40.
[0023] In another non-limiting embodiment, the hair composition can be represented by formulations selected from the group consisting of Formula (III), Formula (IV), Formula (V) and combinations thereof.

wherein R'1 and R'4 are independently hydrogen, a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 10 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a sulfhydryl group, an aryl group or a halogen; and R'5 and R'6 are independently hydrogen, an aliphatic hydrocarbon group, an alicyclic hydrocarbon group, an aryl group, an alkylaryl group or a heterocyclic group. L is a linker and can be an aliphatic hydrocarbon group, an alicyclic hydrocarbon group, an aryl group, an alkylaryl group or a heterocyclic group. The aliphatic hydrocarbon group, alicyclic hydrocarbon group, aryl group, alkylaryl group or heterocyclic group can be further substituted by other functional groups containing oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, halogen and so on.
[0024] The molar ratios of Formula (III) + Formula (IV) to Formula (V) may vary when the hair composition comprises Formulas (III), (IV) and (V). In a non-limiting embodiment, the molar ratio of Formula (III) + Formula (IV) to Formula (V) may be from 1:99 to 99: 1. In another non-limiting embodiment, the molar ratio of Formula (III) + Formula (IV) to Formula (V) can be from 20:80 to 80:20. In yet another non-limiting embodiment, the molar ratio of Formula (III) + Formula (IV) to Formula (V) may be from 40:60 to 60:40.
The hair composition of Formula (I) and/or Formula (II) may comprise a reaction product of at least one lactone compound and at least one amino alcohol compound. The amino alcohol compound can comprise one, two, three or more hydroxyl groups.
[0026] In a non-limiting embodiment, the amino alcohol compound can be represented by Formula (VI):
wherein R1 and R2 each represent an aliphatic hydrocarbon group, an alicyclic hydrocarbon group, an aryl group or a heterocyclic group, where these groups are substituted with at least one hydroxyl group; and R3 is hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to about 12 carbon atoms.
[0027] The aliphatic hydrocarbon group employed herein may include saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted aliphatic hydrocarbon groups. Examples of aliphatic hydrocarbon groups can include, but are not limited to, a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to about 12 carbon atoms, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an isopropyl group, a butyl group. , an isobutyl group, a sec-butyl group, a t-butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, octyl group and decyl group; an alkenyl group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, such as a vinyl group, an allyl group, a 1-propenyl group, an isopropenyl group and a 2-butenyl group; and an alkynyl group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, such as a 2-propynyl group and a 2-butynyl group.
[0028] The alicyclic hydrocarbon group employed herein may include substituted or unsubstituted saturated or unsaturated alicyclic hydrocarbon groups. Examples of alicyclic groups can include, but are not limited to, a cycloalkyl group having about 3 to about 10 carbon atoms, such as a cyclobutyl group, a cyclopentyl group, a cyclohexyl group, a cyclooctyl group; and a cycloalkenyl group having about 3 to about 10 carbon atoms, such as a cyclopentenyl group and a cyclohexenyl group.
[0029] The aryl group employed herein may comprise about 6 to about 14 carbon atoms, such as a phenyl group and a naphthyl group.
[0030] The heterocyclic group employed herein may include those containing at least one heteroatom selected from the group consisting of a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom and a sulfur atom. The heterocyclic group can be an aromatic heterocyclic group, a non-aromatic heterocyclic group or a composite heterocyclic group.
[0031] A heterocyclic ring of the aforementioned heterocyclic group may include a nitrogen-containing heterocyclic ring such as pyrroline, pyrrole, piperidine, piperazine, pyridine, pyrimidine, pyridazine, triazole and quinoline; an oxygen-containing heterocyclic ring such as tetrahydrofuran, furan and pyran; a sulfur-containing heterocyclic ring such as tetrahydrothiophene and thiophene; and a heterocyclic ring containing at least two heteroatoms selected from the group consisting of a nitrogen atom, an oxygen atom and a sulfur atom, such as thiazoline, thiazolidine, thiazole, thiazine and morpholine.
[0032] In another non-limiting embodiment, the amino acid compound can be represented by Formula (VII):
wherein R1 and R2 are independently H, an alkyl group having 1 to about 20 carbon atoms, or an alkyl group having 1 to about 20 carbon atoms substituted with at least one hydroxyl group; and R is an alkyl or alkenyl of about 2 to about 16 carbon atoms.
[0033] In yet another non-limiting embodiment, the amino alcohol compound may be represented by Formula (VIII):
wherein R1 and R2 are an alkyl group having 1 to about 20 carbon atoms or an alkyl group having 1 to about 20 carbon atoms substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
[0034] Examples of the amino alcohol compound may include, but are not limited to ethanolamine, 2-hydroxyethylhydrazine, 2-methoxyethylamine, 3-amino-1-propanol, amino-2-propanol, DL-alaninol, 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol, serinol, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, 1-amino-2-methyl-2-propanol, 2-(ethylamino)ethanol, 2-amino-1-butanol, 2-amino-2- methyl-1-propanol, 3-methylamino-1-propanol, 4-amino-1-butanol, 2-(2-aminoethoxy)ethanol, 3-methylamino-1,2-propanediol, diethanolamine, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, N -(2-hydroxyethyl) ethylenediamine, meso-1,4-diamino-2,3-butanediol, 2-aminocyclopentanol, 2-(isopropylamino) ethanol, 2-(propylamino) ethanol, 2-amino-3-methyl-1- butanol, 5-amino-1-pentanol, 2-(3-aminopropylamino) ethanol, 1-amino-1-cyclopentanemethanol, 4-aminocyclohexanol, 2-(butylamino) ethanol, 6-amino-1-hexane, DL- 2-amino-1-hexanol, leucinol, N,N'-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)ethylenediamine, 2-aminobenzyl alcohol, 3-aminobenzyl alcohol, 4-aminobenzyl alcohol, 2-amino-4-niethoxyphenol 3,4 -dihydroxy ibenzylamine, 3,5-dihydroxybenzylamine, 1-aminomethyl-1-cyclohexanol, 2-aminomethyl-1-cyclohexanol, N-Boc-ethanolamine, 5-amino-2,2-dimethylpentanol, 2-amino-1- phenylethanol, 2-amino-3-methylbenzyl alcohol, 2-amino-5-methylbenzyl alcohol, 2-aminophenylethyl alcohol, 3-amino-2-methylbenzyl alcohol, 3-amino-4-methylbenzyl alcohol, 4-(1-hydroxyethyl) aniline, 4-aminophenethyl alcohol, N-(2-hydroxyethyl) aniline, 3-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzylamine, 3-hydroxyetyramine, 6-hydroxydopamine, 4-(Z-amino)-1-butanol, 5-(Z-amino )-1-pentanol, 4-(Z-amino) cyclohexanol, 6-(Z-amino)-1-hexanol, 3-(Boc-amino)-1-propanol, N-Boc-serinol, 2-benzylaminoethanol , 4-(Boc-amino)-1-butanol, 2-(aminomethyl)-2(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol and 2-(2-aminoethyl)-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol.
The hair composition of Formula (III), or Formula (IV) or Formula (V) or combinations may comprise a reaction product of at least one lactone compound and at least one alkyl diamine compound.
[0036] The alkyl diamine compound may contain about 2 to about 12 carbon atoms. In a non-limiting embodiment, the alkyl diamine compound can contain about 2 to about 6 carbon atoms. Examples of the alkyl diamine compound may include, but are not limited to, ethylenediamine, 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,4-diaminobutane, 1,5-diaminopentane, hexamethylene diamine, 1,7-diaminohepatane, 1,8-diaminooctane , 1,9-nonanediamine, 1,10-diaminodecane and dodecanomethylenediamine. In a non-limiting embodiment, the alkyl diamine is ethylene diamine. In another non-limiting embodiment, the alkyl diamine is 1,3-diaminopropane.
[0037] The lactone compound of the presently disclosed inventive concept(s) may include, but is not limited to, a cyclic ester compound which comprises a heterocyclic ring and the heteroatom in the heterocyclic ring is which may be represented by Formula (IX):
wherein R and R' are independently H and a hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to about 40 carbon atoms which may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted. Hydrocarbon radicals may comprise hydroxyl groups, amino groups,
[0038] The lactone compound may comprise rings of 3 to 8 elements (including the oxygen in the heterocyclic ring and the carbonyl carbon). Examples of such lactone compounds may include, but are not limited to, α-lactones (3-element ring of alpha-lactones), β-lactones (4-element ring of lactones), y-lactones (5-element ring of lactones ), ô-lactones (6-element ring of delta-lactones) and ε-lactones (8-element ring of epsilon-lactones).
[0039] In a non-limiting embodiment, the lactone compound may be an ô-lactone. In a non-limiting embodiment, the ô-lactone can be represented by Formula (X):
wherein R1-R4 are independently H, a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 10 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a sulfhydryl group, a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a sulfhydryl group, an aryl group or a halogen.
[0040] In a non-limiting embodiment, R1-R4 are independently a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical.
[0041] Examples of the ô-lactone compounds may include, but are not limited to limnant δ-lactone, ô-octalactone, δ-decalactone, δ-nonalactone, undecanoic δ-lactone, δ-dodecalactone, lactone massoia (or 5- pentylpent-2-en-5-olide), jasmine lactone (or Z-2-pentylpentan-5-olide), 6-pentyl-alpha-pyrone (or 5-pentylpenta-2,4-dien-5-olide) , δ-valerolactone, galactonolactone, glucone-δ lactone, hexadecanolactone and mevalonolactone.
[0042] According to the presently disclosed inventive concept(s), the lactone compound, the alkylamine compound or the amino alcohol compound and a solvent can be mixed with each other at room temperature ( ~23°C) to form a mixture. The mixture may be heated to about 30°C to about 100°C for at least 30 minutes to form a reaction product of the presently disclosed inventive concept(s). In a non-limiting embodiment, the mixture may be heated to about 40°C to about 80°C for at least 60 minutes. In another non-limiting embodiment, the mixture may be heated to about 50°C to about 75°C for at least 120 minutes. In yet another non-limiting embodiment, the mixture may be heated to about 55°C to about 65°C for at least 150 minutes.
[0043] The solvent can be water; methanol; acetone; benzene; the other alcohols and/or glycols including, but not limited to, ethanol, isopropanol (IPA), t-butyl alcohol (TBA), glycol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol and dipropylene glycol; and its mixtures. In a non-limiting embodiment, the solvent is water. In another non-limiting embodiment, the solvent is methanol. In yet another embodiment, the solvent is a mixture of water with methanol, ethanol or isopropanol.
Appropriate amounts of the lactone compound and the alkyl diamine compound or amino alcohol can be determined by one of ordinary skill in the art. In a non-limiting embodiment, the molar ratio of the lactone compound to the alkylamine compound or amino alcohol compound ranges from about 10:1 to about 1: 10. In another non-limiting embodiment, the molar ratio of the lactone compound to the alkyl diamine compound or the amino alcohol compound ranges from about 8:1 to about 1: 8. In yet another non-limiting embodiment, the molar ratio of the lactone compound to the compound of alkylamine or amino alcohol compound ranges from about 5:1 to about 1: 5. In yet another non-limiting embodiment, the molar ratio of lactone compound to alkylamine compound or amino alcohol compound ranges from about 2: 1 to about 1: 2.
To obtain maximum hair strength, the following hair care composition further comprises a sufficient amount of a buffer system to adjust a pH to about 2 to about 6. The buffer system can be any combination of an acid and a base. Typically, the buffer system comprises an inorganic acid and/or an organic acid and/or a salt thereof to provide the hair care composition having a pH value of from about 2 to about 6 to 25°C. In a non-limiting embodiment, the pH value can range from about 3 to about 5. In another non-limiting embodiment, the pH value can range from about 3 to about 4.
[0046] In one aspect of the buffer system, the inorganic acid is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen chloride (HCl), sulfuric acid (H2SO4), nitric acid (HNO3), phosphoric acid (H3PO4) and combinations thereof.
[0047] In another aspect of the buffer system, the organic acid is selected from the group consisting of an alpha-hydroxy acid, a polycarboxylic acid and combinations thereof. Consequently, the organic acid has an acidic functional group having a pKa of about 4.5 or less. In a non-limiting embodiment, the organic acid has a second functional group with a pKa of about 6 or less.
The organic acid may have a molecular weight of less than about 500 grams per mol (g/mol). For example, but not by way of limitation, the molecular weight of the organic acid can be from about 90 g/mol to about 400 g/mol, or from about 100 g/mol to about 300 g/mol, or from about 130 g/mol to about 250 g/mol, or from about 150 g/mol to about 200, or about 190 g/mol. In another aspect, the organic acid can be soluble in water in an amount greater than about 0.2 mol per liter at 25°C. For example, but not by way of limitation, the water solubility of the organic acid can be about 0.3 mol/L or more, or about 0.4 mol/L or more, or about 0.5 mol /L or more.
[0049] Examples of organic acids may include, but are not limited to lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, gluconolative acid, pimelic acid, glyoxylic acid, aconitic acid, ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid, L-glutamic acid, malic acid, malonic acid and their combinations.
[0050] Examples of the salt of such an inorganic acid and an organic acid may include its alkali metal salts such as the sodium salt and the potassium salt; its ammonium salt; and its alkanolamine salts such as the triethanolamine salt.
[0051] The hair composition of the presently disclosed and disclosed inventive concept(s) may further comprise at least one active benefit component for the hair. The active hair benefit component may include, but is not limited to, a rheology modifier, a surface active agent, an auxiliary fixative, a solvent, water, a conditioner, a propellant, a neutralizing agent, fragrance, a fragrance solubilizer , a thickener, preservative, an emulsifier, emollient, humectant, colorant, wax and mixtures thereof.
[0052] Other active components of benefit to hair may include, but are not limited to, fatty acid soap, suspension aids, vitamins, hair growth promoters, self tanning agents, sunscreens, anti-dandruff agents, anti-inflammatory compounds, analgesics, agents antiperspirants, deodorants, antioxidants, chelating agents, antistatic agents, foam builders, hydrotopes, solubilizing agents, chelating agents, antimicrobial agents, antifungal agents, pH adjusting agents, chelating agents, buffering agents, botanicals, oxidizing agents, reducing agents, hair whitening agents, pigments, anticaries, anti-tartar agents and anti-plaque agents.
[0053] The surfactant can be an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, an amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant and their combinations.
[0054] Examples of anionic surfactants may include, but are not limited to, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkaryl sulfonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosucinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates , and alpha-olefin sulfonates, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di and triethanolamine salts. Alkyl and acyl groups generally contain 8 to 18 carbon atoms and can be unsaturated. Alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates can contain from 1 to 10 units of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per molecule.
[0055] Typical anionic surfactants for use in the hair composition of the inventive concepts currently described and/or claimed may include, but are not limited to, sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium laurylsulfosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, trimethylamine dodecylbenzene sulfonate, sodium cocoyl isothionate, sodium lauryl isethionate and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate. In a non-limiting embodiment, the anionic surfactants can be sodium lauryl sulfate, trioleanolamine monolauryl phosphate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate 1EO, 2EO and 3EO, ammonium lauryl sulfate and ammonium lauryl ether sulfate 1EO, 2EO and 3EO.
[0056] Examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants may include, but are not limited to, alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulfobetaines (sultains), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl hydroxyl glycine amphopropionates, alkyl glycine sulphonates, alkyl glycinates of alkyl amidopropyl, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, where the alkyl and acyl groups have 8 to 19 carbon atoms. Typical amphoteric and zwitterionic cosurfactants for use in the hair composition of the presently disclosed inventive concept(s) may include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulfopropyl betaine and, preferably, lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocamphopropionate.
[0057] The hair composition may also include cotensoactive agents, to adjust and impart aesthetic, physical or cleaning properties to the composition. In a non-limiting embodiment, the non-ionic surface active agent can be included in an amount ranging from 0% to about 5% by weight based on the total weight of the hair composition.
[0058] For example, representative non-ionic surfactants in the capillary compositions of the inventive concept(s) described herein may include condensation products of primary or secondary chain aliphatic alcohols or phenols (C8C18) linear or branched with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.
[0059] Other representative nonionics include mono or dialkyl alkanolamides. Examples include coconut mono- or diethanolamide and coconut monoisopropanolamide.
[0060] Other non-ionic surfactants that can be included in the hair compositions of the presently described inventive concept(s) are the alkyl polyglycosides (APGs). Typically, the APG is one which comprises an alkyl group attached (optionally through a linking group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups. Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula:
where R is a straight or branched chain alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group.
[0061] R can represent an average alkyl chain length from about C5 to about C20. Preferably, R represents an average alkyl chain length from about C8 to about C12. More preferably, the value of R is between about 9.5 and about 10.5. G can be selected from C5 or C6 monosaccharide residues and is preferably a glycoside. G can be selected from the group comprising glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and their derivatives. Preferably G is glucose.
[0062] The degree of polymerization, n, can have a value from 1 to about 10 or more. Preferably, the value of n is in the range of about 1.1 to about 2. More preferably, the value of n is in the range of about 1.3 to about 1.5.
Alkylpolyglycosides suitable for use in the presently disclosed inventive concept(s) are commercially available and include, for example, materials identified as: Oramix™ NS 10 (available from Seppic); Plantaren™ 1200 and Plantaren™ 2000 (available from Henkel).
[0064] The conditioning agent may consist of silicones, organic conditioning oils, natural and synthetic waxes and cationic polymers.
[0065] Silicone can be silicone fluids, silicone oils, cationic silicones, silicone gums, high refractive silicones, silicone resins, emulsified silicones and dimethicone copolyols.
[0066] The rheology modifier or the rheology modifier polymer comprises a polymer selected from the group consisting of carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose and combinations thereof.
[0067] The hair composition in the presently disclosed and disclosed inventive concept(s) can also be used to protect hair color against fading and/or shampoo washes. The color protection treatment can be administered by a post-color treatment (after hair dye), either from a leave-in product or a production rinse-off or combination of these.
[0068] The following examples illustrate the presently disclosed inventive concept(s) and stated and/or claimed, parts and percentages by weight, unless otherwise indicated. Each example is provided by way of explanation of the presently disclosed inventive concept(s) and not limitation of the currently disclosed and claimed inventive concept(s). Indeed, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations can be made to the present inventive concept(s) presently disclosed and claimed, without departing from the scope or spirit of the invention. For example, features illustrated or described as part of one embodiment, can be used in another embodiment to produce yet another embodiment. Thus, it is intended that the inventive concept(s) currently disclosed and claimed cover(s) such modifications and variations that fall within the scope of the appended claims and their equivalents. EXAMPLES Preparation of Reaction Products Example 1 - Reaction of Gluconolactone with Ethylene Diamine in Water
[0069] An amount of 30.2 g of ethylenediamine (EDA), 23.9 g of water and 35.6 g of L-gluconic acid delta-lactone (GDL) were sequentially added in a 3-neck flask to form a Mix. The mixture was gradually heated, under nitrogen, to about 60°C and held for about 2.5 hours. Then, the temperature was lowered to 50°C and the final product formed was poured into a container. Once the temperature was reduced to room temperature (~21-23°C), the final product was obtained. Analytical results showed that the final product included N,N'-ethylenebis-D-gluconamide, N-(2-aminoethyl)-D-gluconamide and GDL. Example 2 - Reaction of GDL with Ethanolamine in Water
[0070] 6.16 g of ethanolamine (EA), 15 g of water and 17.9 g of delta-lactone of L-gluconic acid were sequentially added in a 3-neck flask to form a mixture. The mixture was gradually heated, under nitrogen, to about 60°C and held at that temperature for about 2.5 hours. Then, the temperature was lowered to 50°C and the final product formed was poured into a container. Once the temperature was reduced to room temperature (~21-23°C), the final product was obtained. Example 3 - Reaction of FPL with ethylenediamine in methanol
[0071] 2.40 g of ethylenediamine, 79 g of methanol and 14.26 g of delta-lactone of L-gluconic acid were sequentially added in a 3-neck flask to form a mixture. The mixture was gradually heated, under nitrogen, to reflux and held at that temperature for about 2.5 hours. Then, the temperature was lowered to room temperature (~21-23°C). The final product was filtered and dried. The product in white powder was obtained. Example 4 - Reaction of GDL with 3-Amino-1-propanol in Water
[0072] 15.0 g of 3-amino-1-propanol (APA), 35.6 g of delta-lactone of L-gluconic acid and 50 g of water were sequentially added in a 3-neck flask to form a mixture . The mixture was gradually heated, under nitrogen, to about 75°C and held at that temperature for about 2.5 hours. Then, the temperature was lowered to 50°C and the final product formed was poured into a container. Once the temperature was reduced to room temperature (~21-23°C), the final product was obtained. Example 5 - Reaction of GDL with 3-Amino-1-propanol in Methanol
[0073] There were sequentially added 50.00 g (0.2 mol) of 3-amino-1-propanol, 200 g of methanol and 35.6 g (0.2 mol) of L-gluconic acid delta-lactone ( GDL) in a 3-neck flask. The mixture was gradually heated under nitrogen to reflux at 60°C and held at that temperature for about 2.5 hours. The reaction was allowed to cool to room temperature (~21-23°C). The reaction mixture was filtered and the product was dried in a ventilated oven at 60°C to provide a gluconamide as a white powder. Example 6 - Reaction of GDL with Tris (Hydroxymethyl) Aminomethane in Methanol
[0074] An amount of 54.0 g of L-gluconic acid delta-lactone, 18.3 g of ethanolamine and 300 g of methanol were sequentially added in a 3-neck flask to form a mixture. The mixture was gradually heated, under nitrogen, to reflux and held at that temperature for about 2.5 hours. Then, the temperature was lowered to room temperature (~21-23°C). The final product was filtered and dried. The product in white powder was obtained. Example 7 - Reaction of GDL with Tris (Hydroxymethyl) Aminomethane in Water
[0075] An amount of 50.0 g of L-gluconic acid delta-lactone, 34.0 g of tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane (THMAM) and 70.2 g of water were sequentially added in a 3-neck flask to form a mix. The mixture was gradually heated, under nitrogen, to about 75°C and held at that temperature for about 2.0 hours. Then, the temperature was lowered to 50°C and the final product formed was poured into a container. The final product containing 55 wt% solids in water was obtained. Example 8 - Mixture of GDL with 3-amino-1-propanol in Water
[0076] An amount of 5.8 g of gluconic acid (50% by weight in water) and 7.5 g of 3-amino-1-propanol was mixed in a beaker at room temperature (~21-23°C) during 1 hour. Measurement of Reaction Products Sample preparation:
[0077] For aqueous samples: about 200 mg of the sample was dissolved in 1.3 g of D2O to form a solution. The sample solution was then transferred to a 5mm NMR tube for analysis.
[0078] For solid samples: About 100 mg of the sample was dissolved in 1.4 g D2O to form a solution. The sample solution was transferred to a 5mm NMR tube for analysis. NMR measurement:
[0079] Quantitative 1H NMR spectrum was recorded using a Varian 400 MHz NMR spectrometer using the PFG-1 probe. The acquisition parameters were as follows: Temperature 297 k (23.85 °C), Scan width 16 ppm, Pulse width 90 degrees, Number of scans 16, and Relaxation delay 30s.
[0080] The spectrum has been phase and baseline corrected using standard practice. The spectrum was calibrated by assigning the trimethylsilyl propanoic acid (TSP) reference peak to 0.0 ppm.
[0081] For diamine reaction products (EDA) and GDL: Region A (IA) = 3.50-3.40 ppm (single) Region B (IB) = 3.4-3.25 ppm (single) Region C (CI) = 3.25-3.10 ppm (triplet)
[0082] The molar ratios of diamide/monoamide/amine-gluconic acid were calculated as follows: Diamide = (IA)/(IA + IB + 2Ic). Monoamide = (2IC)/(IA + IB + 2Ic). Amine gluconic acid salt = (IB)/(IA + IB + 2Ic).
[0083] For the reaction product of the amine alcohol compound (EA/APA) and GDL: Region A (IA) = 4.40-4.20 ppm (double) Region B (IB) = 4.25-4, 10 ppm (double)
[0084] Molar ratios of monoamide/amine salt to gluconic acid salt were calculated as follows: Monoamide = (IA)/(IA + IB). Amine-salt of gluconic acid = (IB)/(IA + IB).
[0085] Table 1 presents the measurement results of the reaction products from Examples 1-7. TABLE 1

Hair Strengthening Test
[0086] White, dark, virgin hair was used (available from International Hair Importers, Glendale, New York, USA). Double bleached dark Caucasian hair was achieved by bleaching virgin dark Caucasian hair for 60 minutes with two parts 12% H2O2 cream and one part Lockblond Blue bleaching powder (potassium persulfate, available from Hair Beauty & Care, Belgium) . The double bleached hair was then rinsed and washed with 4.5% by weight of basic SLES solution. 1. Measurement of Characteristic Survival Time
[0087] The final products obtained from Examples 1-5 and 7-8 were directly diluted with water to 1% by weight of the aqueous solutions. The pH of the aqueous solutions was adjusted to about 4 using lactic acid or lactic acid/sodium hydroxide in Example 1 and tartaric acid or tartaric acid/sodium hydroxide in other Examples. A section of hair fibers (>50 hair fibers, hereinafter "the hair") was cut from the top of the lock of hair. The hair was soaked in the aqueous solution for about 30 minutes without shaking. Then the hair was removed and dried at a controlled temperature of 23 + 2°C and a controlled ambient humidity of 50 + 5%. The central part of each hair fiber was stapled with PVC coated brass clips. After each hair fiber was stapled, the hair was held for at least 2 hours at controlled temperature and controlled ambient humidity for balance.
[0088] A Cyclic Tester (CYC 801) was used for cyclic tensile testing and measurement, along with an ASL1500 automatic module carrying a hair sample (loaded with 50 hair fibers) and a Dimensional Fiber Analysis System (Fiber Dimensional Analysis System (Model FDAS 765), which is incorporated with Mitituyo Laser Micrometer LSM 500 to measure the diameter of each hair fiber. The instrument and its accessories were available from Dia-Stron Limited, Andover, UK.
[0089] The diameter of each hair fiber was measured and weighted in from more than five measurements before the cyclic pull test. Measurement of the survival characteristics of virgin and damaged or weakened hair with and without treatment with the reaction products of the presently disclosed and/or claimed inventive concept(s) was carried out under a repeated tensile load. The load force was calculated based on the measured diameter of each hair fiber and applied to the corresponding fiber, so that constant tension (gram/hair cross-sectional surface area) was applied to the single hair fiber. Fifty (50) hair fibers were loaded to repeat the measurement at a speed of 40 mm per minute. The tensile test ended when all the hair fibers were broken or reached the maximum cycles of 100,000. The number of breakage cycles of each hair fiber was recorded. Survival probabilities of treated and untreated (control) hair fibers compared to cycle numbers were obtained using UvWin OC Application software (available from Dia-Stron Limited, UK) based on Weibull analysis. The data are presented in Table 2 (using stress control of 0.0165 g/μm2) and Table 3 (using stress control of 0.0140 g/μm2). The α Weibull parameter or characteristic lifetime was represented by the breakage of 63.2% of hair fibers. For each test group, normalized data were calculated based on the following equation:
2. Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) Measurement
[0090] DSC is based on the fact that all materials have abilities to absorb certain amounts of energy in heating. This amount of energy is sensitive to changes in the structure, phase, and composition of the material. For example, the amount of energy the material absorbs can change when the material undergoes a change in crystal structure, phase transition such as melting, or loss of water.
Previously published DSC techniques by Cao (J. Cao, Melting Study of the Crystallites in Human Hair by DSC, Thermody. Acta, 335 (1999) and FJ Wortmann (FJ Wortmann, C. Springob, and G. Sendlebach, Investigations of Cosmetically Treated Human Hair by DSC in Water, IFFCC Ref 12 (2000) are used to study the structural changes of hair by measuring the pattern of behavior or thermal decomposition.The thermal stability of hair is evaluated by measuring the amount of energy thermal required for denaturation or phase transition. The technique measures the amount of heat transferred into and out of a sample in comparison to a reference. Inward (endothermic) and outward (exothermic) heat transfer is detected and recorded as a thermogram of heat flux as a function of temperature.
[0092] The DSC technique produces thermogram data on the denaturation temperature Td and the denaturation enthalpy (delta H) of hair. It was concluded that thermogram data of the hair denaturation temperature Td depend on the crosslink density of the matrix, in which the microfibrils or crystalline filaments surround. Furthermore, the enthalpy of denaturation (delta H) depends on the strength of the crystalline filaments or microfibrils. It has been shown that cosmetic treatments, such as bleaching or permanent, affect these morphological components selectively and differently at different rates causing changes in denaturation temperatures and heat flux. The lower the denaturation temperature, the more damaged the hair is.
[0093] The DSC was used to analyze the effects of treatment on the inventive concept(s) and/or presently disclosed(s). Hair samples were analyzed using TA Instrument DSC Q-2000. Linear baseline was used to determine enthalpy of denaturation.
[0094] The final products obtained from Examples 1-5 and 7-8 were directly diluted to 1% by weight of the aqueous solutions. The pH of the aqueous solutions was adjusted to about 4 using lactic acid or lactic acid/sodium hydroxide in Example 1 and tartaric acid or tartaric acid/sodium hydroxide in other Examples. The hair was soaked in the aqueous solution for about 30 minutes. Then the hair was washed with tap water for about 20 to about 30 seconds. Hair was dried using paper towels to remove excess water. While wet, the hair was cut 2-4 mm in length with scissors and then dried at room temperature and relative humidity (20 to 23°C, 50-55% humidity) for about five minutes. The hair was weighed to approximately 5 to 7.5 mg and placed in a high pressure stainless steel pan. About 45 mL of Miili-Q water was added to the pan. Five pans were prepared for each of the hair fibers. Hair fibers were equilibrated at 20°C for about two minutes. Hair fibers were heated to 175°C to 2°C per minute. The hair fibers were then cooled to 20°C at about 20°C per minute. Hair fibers were equilibrated at 25°C. The measured data are listed in Tables 2 and 3, where ΔT was calculated based on the difference in Td obtained from the control hair and the corresponding treated hair with the final products. Table 2
Table 3

[0095] The results show that, after the treatment of doubly bleaching hair with the samples obtained from the inventive concept(s) presently disclosed and/or claimed(s), the anti-stress capacity of damaged hair is enhanced compared to hair not treated. In addition, the strengths of damaged hair are improved and even superior to virgin hair. The results also show that the denaturation temperature is higher for treated hair compared to untreated damaged hair. Hair Color Protection
Dark, virgin, white hair was dyed with Clairol Textures & Tones 4R (Red Hot Red) at 40°C for 45 minutes. The hair was then washed for 2 minutes. After washing, the hair was treated with 0.5% by weight of the solution containing the sample from Example 5, or treated with rinse conditioner, or the combination of solution and rinse conditioner for 1 minute. The hair was dried overnight. Then the hair was soaked in either water or a 2% shampoo solution for 45 minutes. Absorbance was measured at 490 nm on the Sintra 20 double-beam UV-vis spectrometer using the soaking solution. A 2.5 ml cell with 12.5 x 12.5 x 45 mm was used for the measurement. The lesser the absorption, the lesser the bleach of hair color. Table 4 lists the measurement results. Table 4
* Containing 0.5% by weight of the sample from Example 5.
权利要求:
Claims (15)
[0001]
1. Hair fiber strengthening method, CHARACTERIZED by the fact that it comprises the application of a hair composition comprising amide salt and/or alkylammonium carboxylate represented by the following formulas:
[0002]
2. Hair fiber strengthening method, CHARACTERIZED by the fact that it comprises the application of a composition to the hair comprising amide salt and/or alkylammonium carboxylate represented by compounds selected from the group consisting of formula (III), formula ( IV), formula (V), and its combinations:
[0003]
3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized by the fact that a pH value of the hair composition is adjusted to 2 to 6 using a buffer system.
[0004]
4. Method according to claim 3, CHARACTERIZED by the fact that the buffer system comprises an acid or a salt.
[0005]
5. Method according to claim 4, CHARACTERIZED by the fact that the acid is an organic acid selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, active gluconol acid, pimelic acid, glyoxylic acid, acid aconitic, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, L-glutamic acid, malic acid, malonic acid and combinations thereof.
[0006]
6. Method according to claim 4, CHARACTERIZED by the fact that the acid is an inorganic acid selected from the group consisting of hydrogen chloride (HCl), sulfuric acid (H2SO4), nitric acid (HNO3), acid phosphoric (H3PQ4) and combinations thereof.
[0007]
7. Method according to claim 2, CHARACTERIZED by the fact that the hair composition comprises a reaction product of at least one lactone compound and at least one alkyl diamine compound.
[0008]
8. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized by the fact that the hair composition further comprises at least one active component beneficial to the hair.
[0009]
9. Method according to claim 8, CHARACTERIZED by the fact that the active component beneficial to the hair comprises at least one component selected from the group consisting of surfactants, fatty acid soap, skin conditioning agents and hair, suspension aids, emollients, emulsifiers, rheology modifying agents, thickening agents, vitamins, hair growth promoters, self tanning agents, sunscreens, lighteners, anti-aging compounds, anti-wrinkle compounds, hair color treatment agents, hair color protective agents, hair care products, anti-cellulite compounds, anti-acne compounds, anti-dandruff agents, anti-inflammatory compounds, analgesics, antiperspirant agents, deodorizing agents, hair fixatives, particles, abrasives, humectants, antioxidants, keratolytic agents , antistatic agents, foam enhancers, hydrotropes, solubilizing agents, chelating agents, antimicrobial agents, antifungal agents, pH adjusting agents, chelating agents, buffering agents, plant agents, hair dyes, oxidizing agents, reducing agents, skin and hair bleaching agents, pigments, anticaries, anti-tartar agents , anti-plaque agents, solvents and combinations thereof.
[0010]
10. Method according to claim 9, CHARACTERIZED by the fact that the surfactant is selected from the group consisting of an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a nonionic surfactant and their combinations.
[0011]
11. Method according to claim 9, characterized by the fact that the conditioning agent is selected from silicones, organic conditioning oils, natural and synthetic waxes, cationic polymers and their combinations.
[0012]
12. Method according to claim 11, characterized by the fact that silicone is selected from silicone fluids, silicone oils, cationic silicones, silicone gums, high refraction silicones, silicone resins, emulsified silicones, copolyols of dimethicone; and their combinations.
[0013]
13. Method according to claim 9, CHARACTERIZED by the fact that the rheology modifier comprises a polymer selected from the group consisting of carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl-guar, hydroxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, and their combinations.
[0014]
14. The method of claim 13, characterized by the fact that the rheology modifier is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight based on the total weight of the hair composition.
[0015]
15. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized by the fact that the hair fibers comprise virgin hair fibers, damaged hair fibers, or colored hair fibers.
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公开号 | 公开日
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JP6855438B2|2021-04-07|
KR20180028484A|2018-03-16|
BR112018000488A2|2018-09-18|
US10945934B2|2021-03-16|
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法律状态:
2019-07-16| B06F| Objections, documents and/or translations needed after an examination request according [chapter 6.6 patent gazette]|
2019-10-22| B06U| Preliminary requirement: requests with searches performed by other patent offices: procedure suspended [chapter 6.21 patent gazette]|
2021-03-16| B15K| Others concerning applications: alteration of classification|Free format text: AS CLASSIFICACOES ANTERIORES ERAM: A61Q 5/00 , C07C 235/06 Ipc: A61K 8/42 (2006.01), A61K 8/49 (2006.01), A61Q 5/0 |
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优先权:
申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
US201562190922P| true| 2015-07-10|2015-07-10|
US62/190,922|2015-07-10|
PCT/US2016/041072|WO2017011237A1|2015-07-10|2016-07-06|Method of strengthening hair fibers and protecting dyed hair color from fading or wash-out|
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